I have two problems with every powder measure I’ve tried: they don’t like to throw the stick powders like IMR4064(tend to cut grains), and they’re sticky with flake powders. Ball powders like 2400 flow through like water, easy to stay consistent.

Honestly, the Lees are not very repeatable.

I have both the RCBS and Hornady manual measure; and both will throw to +/-.1gr with most powders once properly adjusted; and presuming consistent technique.

I also have the RCBS electric measure and scale, and oh my god it’s the best thing in the world for precision reloading. It easily tripled my loading speed on precision rifle rounds.

I have a whole bunch of stuff about this in my reloading section

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/search/label/reloading

I think the number one thing I’ve learned from reloading is that 9mm is one of the best rounds to learn with. Unlike older cartridge sizes, the gunpowder for a slightly hot round already completely fills the cartridge, making it very obvious when you screw up and try to double load.

Good to know, thanks!

I have a power trickler and really like it.

As far as the lead goes, shooting at indoor ranges with bullets that have lead exposed on the base are probably the biggest source of exposure. When handling bullets I always wear vinyl or nitrile (I have a mild allergy to latex) gloves. This protects me from the lead as well as the ammo from salts and oils from my fingers.

Many primers have lead in them so handling the spent primers is a mild hazard and you should wear gloves when handling them. Same with the polishing media from your brass tumbler.

I have an air cleaner running on my reloading bench to catch the dust from the tumbler media and the spent primers. Be sure to treat the air filter as toxic waste when you change it. Wear gloves and a face mask to filter your air.

As part of my yearly physical I get my blood tested for lead. Even when I was reloading 1000 rounds a month and shooting indoors two and three times a week my lead never got out of the normal range. It is now down to the undetectable range even though I still reload some.

My first chronograph was a second hand cheapy thing that I had problems with in low light. I bought another one a little over a year ago and bought the version that has IR lights such that I can use under any conditions.

For lead exposure, it’s a good thing to get some EDTA supplements into your system. This stuff is clinically proven to get the lead out.

FWIW, I also take N-Acetyl Cysteine which is an anti-osidant that has been shown to significantly reduce hearing loss due to loud noises, and while it works best if taken ahead of time even works if taken up to several hours after the noise exposure. Somewhere around here I’ve got some articles on the subject in real medical journals. In fact, the military has been doing testing with it. Granted, we should all be using quality hearing protection, but I like to play it safe.

My plan, since I fire my reloads out of semi-automatic rifles, is to reuse the case no more than 4 times. Brass isn’t that awfully expensive, and I figure the case has paid for itself by then.

It came with some weights and measures them perfectly each and every time. Put a 110 grain bullet on there and you’re getting 110 grains in weight.

I think it can be off by .1± grain though so it’s not something you want to use if you’re aiming for ultra precision, but I double check quite often against my beam scale and haven’t seen any discrepancies.